cham traffic not as bad as cairo


that doesn’t mean a great deal, however. since it’s ramadan around sundown the streets quiet, but aggression seems to be taken out here on the roads; syrian politeness and hospitality are otherwise renowned.

i got a kitten today. she’s very small and black, 3 months old. a friend who has been here a while took a few of us to see the woman who gave her her cat about a year ago. the family’s house was an old beit arabi, beautiful courtyard, outside the old city near a market. like so many houses here, just a door on an alleyway that opens up to greenery inside. only this house was also full of cats. maybe a half dozen kittens running around plus the same number of full grown cats. the father of the family met us in the market and led us to the house, where he met his wife and their daughter. we had coffee with them while we played with the kittens and two of us picked two out, from the same litter, 3 and half months old, but mine is all black and seems the runt of the litter if her tiny frame is any indication. later the family brought out two of their taxidermied cats. one was the grandfather of the kittens. it was mounted on a block of wood. this seemed too much out of seinfeld. the second one was not mounted but stuffed in its curled-up floor position. the faces of both looked crazed, the taxidermy job a little odd. they really love their cats here.

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